Having provided a bit of background on rod design and construction, let me add that the vast majority fly rods commercially available from (listed alphabetically) Diamondback, Fenwick, G. Loomis, Lamiglass, Orvis, Powell, Redington, Sage, Scott, St. Croix, Winston, and others are generally very good rods. Quality is almost a mandate since competition is keen. Just be sure to check the alignment of the guides with the spine. Some companies do a better job of finding the spine than others. To appeal to a wide range of pocketbooks, most manufacturers offer more than one line of rods. For example, Loomis offers four, including the GL2, GL3, GL4 and the top of the line GLX. Orvis offers even more, ranging from the baseline Clearwater to the Trident PM-10. Importantly, all these rods are different. Given rods of equivalent weight, length, and fly line, an Orvis HLS will not cast the same as a Sage GFL RPL or a Loomis IMX. (Discontinued for awhile, I am pleased to report its return to the G. Loomis stable.)

The number of rod series by any given manufacturer is always changing, sometimes without anything more than a cosmetic change to the blank. When the cosmetics change, the blank may look different, but is it? Try this, take last year’s rod blank that was finished unsanded, and sand it smooth. Next, paint it a different color. After installing the guides, complete the finish with a smooth coat of epoxy. Surprise, surprise -- you have a brand new rod, at least in appearance. Let the buyer beware: that radically new design you read about might just be the same old rod -- for the good or bad. Remember the manufacturer can control only three variables in the manufacturing process: material, wall thickness and diameter and/or taper.

Given the array of manufacturers and the seemingly inexhaustible number of rods, selecting one can become a problem. Add rod length to the discussion and the problem becomes even more complex depending on which authority is offering his or her advice. Fly rods typically range from a "short" six-feet to a "long" ten-feet. If you don’t think there is a big difference in casting the rods at either extreme, think again. The same sort of variance exists between rod weights, now ranging from the 1-weight through 15-weight. Imagine the difference in the casting attributes of an old Fisher Bluewater 8-foot, 6-inch 14-weight and a Winston TMF 8-foot 4-weight.

Which rod is best for you? That’s a tough question. The best advice I can offer is not to "over-rod" yourself. This has nothing to do with the line-weight the rod is designed for; it has to do with the actual weight of the rod itself. In the heavier weights, 7 and up, some rods are simply too heavy for comfortable "all-day" casting, especially for the average woman or small-framed man. I happen to be fortunate to own a "light" 12-weight that weighs a little over 5-ounces, a weight I can comfortably fish for hours. Not so long ago, another fly fisher asked me to try his 12-weight. I did. It was terrible. Being kind, I said, "It has a unique weight and action." In truth, the rod was what I call a "few minutes" rod, and nothing more. In a word, it was far too heavy for effective work.

Selecting a rod requires answering questions only you can answer. The best I can do is try to help by sorting through a few questions and analogies. I will try to guide the discussion in a direction that will enable you to frame the right answers. For example, would you select a mini-van, regardless of make, as your entry in this year’s Indy 500? I doubt it! You and I both know it wouldn’t qualify in speed, acceleration, cornering or general handling. (I note in the world of auto racing mini-vans quickly come apart when the wall intervenes.) However, most of us would agree that mini-vans do qualify as a pretty comfortable "u-haul" carrier of people, kids and groceries.

Just as cars come in designs ranging from the ideal work commuter to a super highway cruiser, so do fly rods. If your goal is motoring over to a little creek fifteen miles off the beaten path of freeway society, I doubt you would select a Lincoln Town Car as the preferred mode of transportation. Similarly, I would not recommend fishing that little creek with a 9-weight, 9 foot rod and matching Weight Forward 9-weight Saltwater Floating Taper (WF-9-F) line. I doubt you would fair well handling this heavy rig in and about the little waters of the creek any more than you would using the Town Car to maneuver the ill-defined cow paths leading to the water’s edge.

Following this line of reasoning, my pick for tackling blue water cobia would not be a 6_ bamboo 4-weight. By the same token, I would not pick an old beach car as my primary means of transportation between Houston and El Paso. I would much prefer a stout 9 or 10-weight for the cobia and the Lincoln Town Car for the trip. It makes little sense to arm yourself with an Orvis One Ounce, a gossamer thread of a rod, and then head out after Jaws, the Great White. Of course, if you are that good … be sure to photograph the "catch & release." It should be a sight to behold -- and -- the greatest fish story of all time.

Discussing extremes is always easy. Extremes, by definition, exist at opposite ends of the teeter-totter. Making decisions about the extremes is not difficult at all; what is difficult is making decisions about things - pro and con - that are close to the middle. This is where most of us end-up when it comes to investing in our first or second fly rod. Human nature being what it is, we usually want two opposing things: (1) a quality rod that we can be proud of, and (2) a rod that costs little or nothing. Impossible! Think cheap and you could argue a full set of gold clubs is a waste of money because a single club should do nicely. (No doubt many wives would rejoice at the suggestion!) Think about it this way: in these days of high costs and fragile economics, golfers everywhere should do their part and sacrifice. Learn to do more with less!

So what to do? Considering the broad perimeters outlined above, when it comes to rod selection what "feels" best to you is apt to be the right rod. If it "feels" right, it’s likely to be a rod in which you have confidence and, therefore, a rod you will learn to use effectively. Who cares if it is not suited for every fish that swims or every piece of water that might hold fish. A caution for women who may be entering the sport: a rod that feels good to "him" may not be good for you. Selecting a fly rod is an area where individual differences play an important role. Whether real or imagined, whether psychological or physical, individual differences have much to do with our likes and dislikes.

It seems to me that men become conditioned by fly fishing magazines, catalogs, other fly fishers and, I suppose the stupid flies. Men come to speak a language I call, "Fly Fisher Speak," a vague language steeped in Latin. One subject that rarely surfaces in their discussions is upper body strength, probably for two reasons: (1) most fly fishers cast short range for trout and/or bass, and (2) casting long range for fish in the saltwater flats is a variation to the art most know little of. The fact is, upper body strength becomes important, especially when trying to punch a 9 or 10-weight into the teeth of a wind on the saltwater flats. In the end, even macho-man tires.

Without offense to anyone, male or female, the differences in comparative anatomy deserve consideration when selecting a rod. Like it or not, physical tests have consistently reflected that men, on the average, have greater upper body strength than women. The point to this drill is this: whether male or female, a 9-weight rod is considerably heavier and clumsier to the touch and feel than a 6 or 7-weight of the same length. Try using a 9-weight with its larger reel and heavier line all day on the flats: It will likely prove to be not your cup of tea!

For the average woman fishing fresh water or the flats of the coast, I advocate a 6-weight fast action rod. For the average man, a 7-weight will do nicely. For My Lady, I suggest a full-wells grip (reduced in diameter) and a short fighting butt. Suitably equipped with a light-weight reel, and spooled with micro-thin backing, My Lady is rigged for victory. (Remember to keep the backing tightly spooled, especially if using a micro-thin backing!) Mr. Average should also equip himself with a short fighting butt and a full-wells grip.

Basic Considerations in Selecting a Rod. Anything I suggest in the way of a rod is, of course, subject to my personal bias. However, some folks have reported back that my bias is not all bad. When you select a rod, factor-in these thoughts in your thinking.

• The rod weight is in the right weight range for the fish you intend to chase.
• The rod length is suited to the environment where you cast and fish.
• The cost of the rod is sufficient to "hurt" just a little.

One thing seems certain -- it is improbable that you will be able to borrow an array of fly rods just to get their feel. Great variance exists today between the young and old, the affluent and not so affluent, and the collective but diverse cultural backgrounds among people. The problem is one of perception, attitudes, tastes and values -- they differ, and differ broadly. Some say the only universal value remaining in the United States is the dollar bill. With the emphasis on the word, "universal," I tend to agree. The result? Many bad experiences.

Suppose, for example, I lend my little Winston, (Tom Morgan’s Favorite) along with its matching Winston Vintage reel, to some guy so that he can "get a feel of how it works." The TMF is a little 8-foot, very light 4-weight, IM6 graphite rod that Tom designed for spring creeks. Those of you who know and appreciate fine quality will immediately recognize the value of this rig. (It sure as hell "hurt" me a bit when I made the purchase.) Let us further assume the borrower is one of those folks who has no difficulty in maintaining an absolute dichotomy between what he says and what he does. Civility aside, this means he is a liar! My experience suggests (1) people who habitually lie rarely tell the truth and (2) people who evidence this trait do not share my system of values. I measure a person by the worth of their deeds, not the worth or their words. Never again will I lend this sort of person anything, much less a valuable fly rod. Never again will I be victimized by receiving back shards of graphite along with the words, "I don’t know how it got broken. It wasn’t my fault!" All too often, the concept of "caring for equipment" means replacing the old Zebco 404 when it rusts out with a new Combo Kit from K-Mart. Seemed to me that these folks are enjoying population growth.

There is a point to all this philosophic discussion: getting advice from folks who do not share your value system can lead to bad outcomes when it comes to fly rod selection. What’s good for me is not necessarily good for you. In any event, getting into fly fishing without spending some money is damned hard. Rods, for the most part, are not exactly what one might call, "inexpensive." There are, however, some remarkable values available at the lower end of the scale. By the way, some of these rods even include guides located on the spine.

When it comes to value, take a look at Sage and their Discovery series. Several years ago, I bought a Discovery 8-weight, 4-piece travel rod; it casts and performs beautifully. I cannot imagine a time when I would ever let it go. There are a number of other manufacturers offering great values, and for a good reason -- it is in their interest to get you "hooked" on fly fishing. Look to G. Loomis, Orvis and Cortland for their offerings within your price range.

Another manufacturer offering value to those who do not possess unlimited funds is Redington, Inc., of Stuart, Florida. Jim Murphy, Redington’s president has succeeded in a very short time of changing the industry. Redington offers an unlimited warranty against breakage on all of their rods. If it breaks, simply send in that part of the butt section containing the Redington label and the rod will be replaced. This move has forced most of the industry to follow suit. Redington’s rods use graphite II with a reverse spine in the tip section. I think you will enjoy what Jim had to say in a letter to me about the Redington line.

"For our part, we are happy to be selling rods the customers can afford with a guarantee that brings a little joy back. This industry takes itself very seriously and it would frighten me to operate a company that equates rod design with rocket science or brain surgery. We even sell rods to people who call them poles." (A personal letter from Jim Murphy to Doug Macnair, from Fly Fishing Texas©)

There are others, of course. Both Cabela’s and L. L. Bean offer fly rods under their own brand names. Although neither company actually makes fly rods, both back their products 100% in terms of owner satisfaction. If you do not like it, return it -- no questions asked! Even some of the chain stores are beginning to stock fly tackle, but most of their merchandise is "shrink-wrapped" for retail sale. That is indeed unfortunate. Packing a fly rod outfit into a cardboard backed package may seem smart to the MBAs and other idiots in marketing; but it makes little sense to a half-witted "consuming" fly fisher like me. I would never consider purchasing "shrink-wrapped" fly fishing tackle unless a test rig is setup. Of course, I don't buy shrink-wrapped shoes either. Ten-to-one that is something you will never see. Fail to heed this advice and "methinks" you play the role of the fool.

A "startup" pack for a beginner can be a good value, especially if obtained from the right source. A startup pack, or matched tackle package, typically includes everything you need to get started -- rod, reel, line, and leader. If the idea sounds attractive, try Cabela’s, Cortland Pro Shops, L. L. Bean, Orvis, Loomis, the Redington "Red-Start" series, and Sage -- but, only after you talk to a product specialist. Try, if you can, to swap out the fly line: The one usually offered is not their best. As you know, I simply do not believe the fly line is the place to cut costs.

Summary. In this part of Folk Tales and Fly Rods, I have covered some points considered important to the rod selection process -- basically, they include the intangibles of self, bias, values and philosophy. Rational thought should always govern rod selection, not emotion. I have also mentioned some sources of great values and suggested three points you should weigh in the decision making process.

Next up: The discussion of "Folk Tales and Fly Rods" continues with Part 3. In this part, I will discuss specific points, pro and con, about today’s fly rods. I think you will find the discussion of interest. God Bless.

© Copyright: Douglas G. Macnair, 1997-2001.