What a subject! Mention the term "fly rod" in the presence of experienced fly fishers and you are likely to start a discussion that will last the rest of the day, if not the rest of the week. No one will accept the fly rod is an important subject to a fly fisher: Some fly fishers believe it to be the most important part of the fly fishing equation. Of course, if you’ve followed this column, you’ve learned the fly line is key, with the rod following-on in second place. However, most folks find it difficult to become emotional about fly lines. The fly rod, on the other hand, is subject a fly fisher can really sink his or her teeth into: The fly rod is a subject given to debate, bias and emotional nonsense, besides being fun.

All fly fishers are experts when it comes to discussing the fly rod. Add to this the fact that most fly fishers like to bend the truth now and again, particularly when relating a fishing tale to friends or neophytes. If you’ve already heard one or two, you probably became convinced -- Some fly rods have magical properties. That’s true, of course. I know because I happen to own the only rod originally designed by the high Druid Priest of Stonehenge. There, on the Salisbury Plain in the south of England, he dedicated the rod to the ancient Fish Gods during the ritual sacrifice at midsummer sunrise. Truly, the rod is magic! You see, the fish in those days were something to behold … But this is a story that must wait for another time, for it was many, many centuries ago when I was a but a small boy …

If Lefty Kreh were writing this article, I am certain he would say: The fly rod is a long flexible lever that helps you make the cast. It matters little if the rod is made of bamboo, fiberglass or graphite or, for that matter, whether or not it possesses intrinsic beauty. What is important is helping the fly fisher to make the cast. In "Folk Tales and Fly Rods," I offer some insights into the mysterious and mystic world of fly rods -- insights that may help you in your rods selections(s) as you begin the sport or add to your existing array of tackle.

At the outset, please understand that there is no such thing as the perfect fly rod, regardless of the asking price. It doesn’t exist, particularly one that addresses the physiological differences between men and women. By definition, the perfect rod would be perfect in everything it does. Obviously, that’s impossible. There are, however, rods advertised as being an "all-around" selection. Quite typically, these rods do a few things well, but not all things. If you match one of these rods against others in a function by function contest, some "outsider" would achieve superior performance in one or more of the "all-around" categories.

This doesn’t mean that an "all-around" rod is a poor choice. Quite the contrary, it might be perfect for you. So what is an all-around rod? Good question! It’s usually defined as a 7-weight, 9-feet in length with a moderately fast action. Importantly, the all-around rod, like any other rod, is a product of compromise; Tradeoffs in performance attributes are built into any rod you select. Your problem will be determining the performance trade-off.

So where do you begin the quest for a fly rod? The answer is somewhere in a complex set of responses to either questions or other stimuli only you can provide. Some issues are cognitive, such as the fish you plan to chase and where you plan to catch these prized beauties. Cognitive questions and the response usually deal with facts. Your other questions and responses, however, will be steeped in your likes and dislikes -- these, if you will, come from the affective domain of the mind. That’s the place where attitudes, tastes and values dwell. In truth, what you like or dislike is as apt to be far more important in rod selection than all the facts I could hope to list.

Man has come a long way since finding that slender limb with the vine attached. The story of fly rods - and what a story it is - is one without beginning or end. Many old-timers still rave about the magic of their handmade bamboo rod and, admittedly, I, too, am smitten by the touch and feel of a fine bamboo rod. They are still available, but somewhat expensive. If you happen to have a thousand bucks to spare, consider picking up one: It is truly a work of art. Given the care it rightfully deserves, a bamboo rod is something to be handed down to sons or daughters. If you have an interest in this form of fly fishing, I suggest contacting Len Codella at Heritage Sporting Collectibles, 2201 S. Carnegie Drive, Inverness, FL 34450. Telephone: 1-(352)-637-5420. He maintains a listing of those artisans still creating magic. Usually, Len also has a few fiberglass and graphite models available.

Following World War II, fiberglass became the rage for almost all fishing rods. It remains popular today in certain applications such as surf casting and trolling. Unfortunately for fly fishers, fiberglass lost popularity with the advent of graphite. Graphite had sex appeal fiberglass did not have: less weight and better response. That, in my view, is too bad. Some very fine fiberglass rods were created that still cast extremely well. I remember an old-timer telling me, "It doesn’t matter a bit if it’s old, my fiberglass rod still does damned good work." Here is an interesting little known fact: fiberglass beats the crapola out of graphite in certain situations. I happen to have a little 4-weight, fiberglass wand that is simply a delight. Only 6-feet in length, in close quarters or small waters, it cannot be beat. As a matter of fact, the little rod reaches out nicely to fifty feet. Quite typically, as a graphite rod gets shorter it also gets stiffer. That means an inherently fast action that’s more difficult to load with a minimum of line. Fiberglass has no such problem. The slower action enables precision casting, gentle presentations and better tippet protection.

Overlooking fiberglass as a viable alternative is sort of like shooting yourself in the foot and wondering why it hurts. The truth is improvements in fiberglass have matched the improvements in graphite. If you want to experience fly fishing, do not happen to be wealthy, and plan to fish sheltered waters, look closely at fiberglass as an inexpensive alternative -- at least to begin the experience. Do you have a youngster who wants to fly fish? Try an inexpensive Eagle Claw Spin/Fly rod (combo) in either fiberglass or a mixture of fiberglass and graphite. It will not cost you an arm and a leg, but fish -- it will!

Today’s standard for fly rod construction is graphite. To be sure, there is an abundance in the array of the graphite materials. Here’s a sample of models you are apt to find described in almost any fly fishing catalog: Graphite II, Graphite III, Graphite IV, IM6, GL3, GL4, GLX, IMS, HLS, Power Matrix -10, Superfine, RPL, RPLX, high matrix, progressive taper, fast taper, moderate taper, slow taper, etc. Depending on what you want the rod to do, almost any of these graphites make excellent rods. All the "Graphites" share one thing in common -- they are by far the lightest fly rods ever manufactured. Without question, the saving in weight is bound to make them the all time favorite of fishing folk who spend a lot of time on the water.

The construction of a graphite rod, however, remains a subject most fly fishers do not understand. Before I started this drill, I certainly fit into this group. I am still not into making blanks, lacking the mandrels, ovens and desire; however, I’ve learned a few things you should know. All graphite rods are not created equal. Using a pattern, graphite material - called "prepreg" in the trade - is wrapped around a tapered mandrel, covered with a special tape, and baked in an oven. When the Chef finishes baking his masterpiece, the "cooked" blank is withdrawn from the mandrel and the tape removed. As an interesting aside, the blank has somewhat rough texture at this point. Depending on the manufacturer, the blank is either left as is, sanded smooth and unfinished or sanded smooth and coated with epoxy.

Somewhere along the line, the term Modulus got loose from the corral, and some fly fishers, with the help of MBAs, PR guys, and advertising experts, got to thinking the higher the Modulus rating the better the rod. Unfortunately, that’s Bull Hockey! As typically used, Modulus refers to the stiffness of the dry graphite fibers -- before mixed with the resin to become the prepreg. It is the prepreg - the combination of graphite and resin - that’s important. Rather than being complex, it is really a very simple proposition. The best I ever heard, drew an analogy between prepreg and reinforced concrete. The graphite is the reinforcing steel and the resin is the concrete. Scrim, a separate item, is the thin layer of graphite or fiberglass added to hold the prepreg in place.

In brief, the manufacturer controls three variables in the rod building process: the material, the wall thickness and the diameter.

• Material. In choosing material, you are already aware that a multiple number of dry graphite Modulus tows exist. To illustrate the first variable, consider IM6. IM6 is a dry graphite many manufacturers still prefer. Some might consider IM6 an "old" Modulus material and, therefore, somehow not suited for a rod in these contemporary times. Wrong! This thought neglects a very important part of the equation -- the resin. Improvement in resins have kept pace with developments in graphite. Thus, the IM6 fly rod of today is not the IM6 rod of yesterday. IM6 is, and will remain, a solid performer.
• Wall Thickness. Wall thickness is a product of the number of wraps of prepreg around the mandrel as determined by the pattern. It’s an important consideration because wall thickness contributes to the rod’s sensitivity, strength and durability. If you think about it for a moment, at this point the manufacturer faces a dilemma, especially when facing the third variable.
• Diameter. The taper of the mandrel drives the rod’s diameter. As I understand it, diameter is the most important consideration in determining flexural strength, in other words, strength when flexed. Unfortunately, graphite "lacks a lot" in transverse tensile strength. Never allow the side wall of a graphite rod to receive a sharp blow. It is apt to cause the rod to fail, if not now, than sometime in the future. It is obvious compromises are called for in facing these dilemmas: Should the rod be thin-walled with a large diameter or should it be thick-walled with a thin diameter? The answer depends on the manufacturer and the use envisaged. Develop a keen eye. The next times you are wandering around a fly shop trying rods using the famed "wiggle test," compare the thinness and/or thickness of various tips and butts. I rather think you will see a difference when comparing one rod to another. The "wiggle test," by the way, is a well-known testing technique: to use it, simply pick up a rod and "wiggle" it back and forth to judge the action. As a valid test, it’s for the birds, but we all do it!

The Spine. Finding the spine is a tedium in the rod building process. The spine is as it sounds, the rod’s backbone. All graphite rods have one, although finding it can range between the extremes of easy and difficult. I’ve seen rods in all price ranges that caused me to believe the manufacturer either skipped or "slopped" through the process of finding the spine. That’s terrible! Whichever term you prefer - backbone or spine - "its" location in relation to the placement of the guides is critical to rod performance. I not only want you to know why, I want you to know how so that you can check the rod you intend to purchase.

• Why the Importance? The effective spine is the longitudinal line on the rod blank where it most resists bending, or evidences the greatest rigidity. Under load, the rod will always turn itself so that the load is resisted or fought by the backbone or spine, the rod’s line of greatest strength. The guides must be aligned along this line of resistance. Failing this, the rod will turn under load to the spine regardless of where the guides are set. Important? You bet! How would you like to be fighting the trophy of a lifetime only to have the rod twist in your hand? This condition makes the rod dynamically unstable for both casting and fish fighting.
• Finding the Spine. Finding the spine usually isn’t difficult. Of course, allowing you to find the spine is something a store or specialty shop may not allow. Still others will assure you the spine is not longer important. If this happens to you, do what Ed Zern would suggest: "Exit Laughing." Scratch that shop from your list. There are other shops that will appreciate your knowledge. If you purchase a rod through mail order and find the guides off line, return it for exchange or credit. Be sure to tell them why the return. A house that buys in quantity has a lot more clout with the manufacturer than you or me. To find the spine, take a section of rod and rest the butt end on a solid flat surface. Next, elevate the tip about 45º and hold it lightly in the palm of your hand. With the other hand, depress the middle of the rod section while rolling it slowly away from you. You will quickly feel a point of resistance where it becomes hard to roll or, suddenly and physically, jumps to another position. That’s the spine! Now check the placement of the guides. They should either be in alignment along the spine or opposed to it 180º. It remains arguable which is best. Some suggest going with the spine increases distance while opposing it 180º improves accuracy. You can practice finding the spine by buying a 1/2-inch dowel rod about 3-feet long. Yes, even a wooden dowel rod has a spine. Interesting isn’t it?

Next up: The discussion of "Folk Tales and Fly Rods" continues with Part 2. It’s my sincere hope you are finding this part of the series enlightening. God Bless.

© Copyright: Douglas G. Macnair, 1997-2001.