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Selecting the Best Fishing LIne


Selecting the Best Fishing LIne Selecting the Best Fishing LIne
By Don Lancaster

INTRODUCTION

Several years ago, one of the leading manufacturers of monofilament fishing line, came up with a new product. They developed a braided line, touted to have a smaller diameter, greater abrasion resistance, and a higher tensile strength.

These new lines were expensive but a great majority of anglers, both neophyte and experienced, spooled their reels with this super line. The first reports were that the new braided lines were cutting the line guides on most of the fishing rods. Rather than deny this happening, the manufacturers advised the fishing public that the new lines were made with a Kevlar composition, which made them extremely abrasive.

Because of this somewhat destructive quality of the new super lines, many anglers elected to return to monofilament. Rod manufacturers developed new guides to counter this abrasiveness, but the new products were more costly than the average angler wanted to pay.

This new innovation in fishing line caused all of the major manufacturers to enter into the super line market and to begin experiments and to develop new chemical compositions that would not have the abrasive qualities.

With the vast network of “field testers” that most of the manufacturers use to test their new products, the new versions of super lines were put to the test. Extensive reports were filled out by anglers ranging from the once a month weekender, to the touring fishing professionals who make their living catching fish.

After all the testing and new development was finished, several major manufacturers had products on the market that were in fact super lines.

The new lines were now rounder, rather than having a somewhat pyramidal shape which most of the original lines had. Their diameter was smaller per class of line, and the tensile strength was superior to monofilament.

EXTENSIVE TESTING

Recently Sport fishing Magazine conducted a series of tests on both monofilament lines and braided lines. The data referred to in the following examples are derived from Sport Fishing Magazines test results and I have used their results to illustrate comparisons. These tests covered everything from measuring the line diameter, to tensile strength, to abrasion resistance. Their tests were all made using 20 pound test lines, but the results are more or less generic. By that I mean the results would most likely be the same, regardless of the size of the line.

Line Diameter

In comparing line diameters, there was a bit of a problem. Diameters are very important because strength is rated as a function of line size. Measuring monofilament was fairly simple, because the strands were round and measuring with a Teklock manual caliper is easy. Measuring the braided lines was more difficult because braided lines are not solid and they tended to flatten when placed in the jaws of the caliper.

Tensile Strength

Eleven braided lines and 73 monofilament lines were used in the testing. Using the International Game Fish Association’s 10-kilogram (20-pound test) limit of 22.8 pounds breaking strength, 50 of the monofilament lines and 9 of the braided lines tested over their published 20-pound test limit. Twenty-three monofilament lines and 2 braided lines parted at less than the 22.8-pound norm, which was used. The strongest of the lines tested was a braided line, which parted at a tested strength of 37.6 pounds. This was almost double the poundage indicated on the packaging.

The monofilament lines were soaked in fresh water for two hours prior to testing, because monofilament line loses some of its tensile strength when wet, thus the IGFA uses the same soaking technique when monofilament line is forwarded for recognition in an award proposal. Braided lines do not lose their strength when wet so these lines were tested dry.

Tested head-to-head, the braided lines generally were stronger than monofilament. If there was anything marring the overall use of braided lines, it was the fact that generic knots do not hold well when using braided lines, thus they lose a little of their strength rating.

EXAMPLES OF DIAMETER AND TENSILE STRENGTH (Generic)

Size-Lbs. Dia. In Inches Mono. Equivalent
10
20
30
50
65
80
100
150
200
250
.006
.009
.011
.014
.016
.017
.018
.022
.030
.035
2
6
8
12
16
18
20
30
50
80

Based on this generic table, I have two of my reels spooled with 20 pound braided line, which is equivalent, in diameter, to 6 pound test monofilament; and two spooled with 50 pound braided, which equals the diameter of 12 pound monofilament.

Abrasion Resistance

EXAMPLES

The controversy continues as to whether there is any advantage of using braided lines versus the old standard monofilament.

I have a couple of recent examples that may aid in settling any arguments. The first example took place early in the flounder season this spring. A boat with two anglers pulled in to one of the local marinas and asked to have one of their fish weighed. They opened their fish box and much to the astonishment of everyone on the dock, they had a fish box with 6 very large flounder. They took out the smallest one and asked to have it weighed. That fish weighed just a little more than 6 pounds (citation minimum weight for flounder). They were not interested in getting citations for their fish; they just wanted to check the weight of the smallest one. In discussing their catch, one of the anglers remarked that the two of them were using identical rods and reels, the same flounder lures and bait, but that one of the two caught every fish and had every bite. The only difference was that the productive partner was using braided line and the other was using monofilament.

I can’t be sure, but I think there was a slight increase in the sale of braided line at the marina that afternoon.

The second example is a personal experience. My partner and I were out on a flounder trip and I had brought along two of my flounder rods spooled with monofilament. (I have several reels spooled with braided line, I just didn’t bring them this trip.) Right at the beginning I must tell you this was a frustrating trip for me. Soon after reaching our destination and getting our rods overboard, my partner boated the first fish of the day, a nice 18-inch keeper. Now, we were both using pink flounder teasers, baited with jumbo minnows and either flounder belly or squid. I did manage to catch a couple of keeper fish, but without having exact figures, I estimated my partner, using braided line, beat me by about five-to-one in boating flounder and had five times as many bites as I had.

Another sidelight to using braided line. When you are in the bay drifting for flounder, the smaller diameter braided line allows you to use less weight to hold the bottom. Braided line doesn’t have the buoyancy that mono has.

GENERAL INFORMATION

With the advances in manufacturing and the refinement of the various braided lines, I will not mention specific manufacturers, but I will say that using this new line creates a totally new technique in fishing. There is no stretch, so when you set the hook, it is set. Cutting most of the new lines is more difficult. Standard clippers will not work, scissors or special cutting tools are recommended. Probably the most drastic change I experienced was when my lure/bait was hung up on the bottom. You cannot just grab the line and part it, as you would with monofilament. Initially I had several small line cuts on my hands and fingers from attempting to break the line as I would mono. All of the instructions included in each spool of braided line will tell you to wrap the line around a solid object, such as a screwdriver, pliers or a knife and then pull.

Even though I am a true convert, I would recommend that anyone desiring to change, do so gradually. Maybe you will not have the confidence in the new lines. As I said, they are considerably more expensive than monofilament, but they truly work.

Read the instructions carefully when first spooling your braided line. Every manufacturer will advise you to leave a foundation of monofilament on your reel spool. Monofilament line will stretch under the slightest of tension, which braided lines will not. This stretch gives a good foothold for the braided line to adhere. Used directly to the spool, the braided lines will just spin when tension is applied and this precludes filling your spool properly.

KNOTS

Every marina or tackle dealer that sells braided lines, either in bulk or in pre-spooled packages, will have instructions on suggested knots and the use of monofilament leaders.

The most important thing to remember concerning knots, is that the standard knots used on monofilament, normally will not work on braided lines. Most manufacturers have a brochure explaining the uni-knot, which is recommended for connecting braided line to monofilament. Then there is the old standard Palomar Knot. If you used this knot on monofilament, you can continue to do so with braided.

My suggestion is for anyone purchasing braided line for the first time to experiment on different knots. Remembering that most braided lines have a high concentration of polyethylene, which is very slick, and causes the strands to slip rather than hold when used in different knots.

USING A LEADER

Many anglers have more confidence when they use a monofilament leader on the business end of their braided line. When the fish are finicky, some anglers believe braided line scares them, so a mono leaded might be more invisible. If you are going to the expense of using braided line, then you might want to use the new fluorocarbon leader material (which is also a little more expensive).

In fishing ½-ounce grubs for gray trout, I use a leader about 36-inches long and using the uni-knot, have had no problems whatever.

FACTS TO REMEMBER

Braided line is not for everyone. I wouldn’t recommend it for someone who spends most of their angling time seeking tautog around wrecks and rocks. You would never be able to afford re-spooling your reels every two or three trips. If you do use braided line for structure fishing, remember to follow the instructions for breaking the line or leader. Wrap the standing part of your line around something solid, such as a cleat, screwdriver or the handle of your pliers, anything to get a little leverage and so you don’t cut your hands. If you are using a mono leader, it will probably part. If you are rigged directly to the braided line, you will have a time getting the line to part.

For casting for trout, bluefish or stripers, braided line will work just fine. You have to remember that using this new line is a different fishing experience. As mentioned earlier, there is no stretch to the braided lines so when you rock back to set the hook, braided line has an immediate hook-set and you are battling the fish much sooner than you would if you were using monofilament.

If you are bottom drifting for flounder, croaker or spot, braided line is an excellent choice. My main reason for using it was mentioned earlier. Using 50-pound test braided line (comparable in diameter to 12-pound test monofilament), I can use less weight to hold the bottom and keep my bait there. When fishing for flounder, I have had several instances when, with four rods out, two of them will become entangled. Using braided line, this tangle is often too tough to free, and the only solution is to cut the line and to re-tie your hook and sinker.

Continuing with thing to remember concerning braided lines, remember - - - you cannot use the same knots normally used with monofilament. A Palomar know is probably the most recommended knot to use. (Although I have tried the old clinch and improved clinch knots and if I take two or three more turns in making the knots, I have found them to hold. I have done this experiment in my living room and not out on the water. Right now, if I am actually fishing, I use the Palomar know.

In using a monofilament leader, I follow the instructions provided with my spool of braided line and use the uni-knot. This is perfect for tying the braided line to the monofilament backing I leave on my spinning reels, and after practicing a few times, the unit knot is easy to tie.

CLOSING

In winding down the comparisons, remember, there are over a dozen manufacturers of braided lines and near 100 different brands or types of monofilament line on the market. My suggestion would be for you to check with a fishing buddy, whose opinion you respect, or a local tackle shop that you trust, and have them guide you to a good braided line. Follow the instructions closely, concerning leaving monofilament backing, how to fill your spools, what knots to use (try your old knots ands see the difference), and how to cut the line when your spool is full.

Then read the instructions further and see what actions you should take when of if you should get hung up on the bottom.

There are many old-timers who may never use the new lines and some who may try it and then return to the old stand-by monofilament. Just remember, if you happen to be aboard when one or two of the crew seem to be catching all of the fish and getting all of the bites. Check their line compared to yours. They could be using the new braided line and at that time you will know first hand what the advantages are.

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kapsix | Posted: November 10, 2003

Extremely helpful article. I am in the throws of contemplating the old switcheroo to braided line from the mono standard. I do a lot of striper fishing and generally use 17-20 Lb Mono but some of the bass are true lunkers and broke the line on occassion. I switched to 30 Lb mono and its like casting an anchor chain. I think I'll give the braided line a try.