By Bob Koeshall
Gone Fishing Guide Service Inc.

If you’re like many of us die-hard fisherman, you’re looking for your favorite lakes, and rivers to become ice free. Before you venture to these waters, there are some things you need to look at. One of the most over looked pieces of your equipment is your boat trailer. You have a lot of money invested in your fishing machine, and it amazes me how many fisherman over look the trailer, the very piece of equipment that separates your boat from the road. A failure here can be very costly. Every spring about this time I double-check my trailer maintenance record for piece of mind. Yes, I keep a record of when my trailer maintenance was performed, as well as maintenance to my boat, and the motors. To make this an easy project for you. I will list the steps I take to do my maintenance on my trailer. Let’s start at the front of the trailer and work towards the rear.

First I look at the Tongue coupler. It has a lever on top of the coupler that engages the pawl and secures the trailer to the hitch ball. I visually inspect the hitch, the ball, and the coupler for signs of wear or damage. If you find any damage, replace any parts that are worn. Next I put a thin layer of Teflon Grease on the ball hitch. Next put the trailer coupler on the ball hitch. Be sure the coupler lever is pressed down towards the trailer tongue, and engages the latch lock, and lock down the coupler to the hitch ball. If it is hard to push down the latch, you will need to adjust the free play with the adjusting nut on the pawl. Remember, you do not want to tighten it too tight as it will cause excess wear on the ball and the coupler. (Important) When properly engaged, the tongue jack will not be able to lift the trailer tongue off the hitch ball.

Next I inspect the safety chains, and inspect the hooks, and then I’ll look at the tongue jack. I check the jack for grease, and check the wheels for signs of damage. Grease with wheel bearing grease if needed. Next I uncouple the trailer and using the wheel chucks, (Front and rear) block the trailer from moving. Next I check the winch and put a light coating of oil on the gears. I visually check the strap, rope, or cable and the hook. Never use any strap, rope or cable that is worn, damaged, frayed or kinked. Make sure the winch strap is securely attached to the boat’s bow eye. Remember the winch / winch strap is not designed to be the only line securing the boat to the trailer while towing. Tie-down straps (bow eye and transom) must be used to properly secure your boat while towing. Failure to properly secure your boat with tie down straps can cause damage to your boat trailer, boat and boat contents. In addition, an improperly secured boat can create a dangerous road condition. In many states, towing a boat without tie down straps is illegal, it’s just smart to use tie downs.

Next let’s look at the wheels and hubs. Check for loose or missing lug nuts & tighten all lug nuts to 85 foot-pounds. I always carry a few new lug nuts in the boats tool kit. Next, check for signs of bearing failure. Bearing grease splattered on the rim, could be a sign of rear seal failure, and loss of grease in the bearing. Discolored wheel hub usually means you have had a hot bearing, and needs further investigating. I then grease the wheel bearings. There are three widely available types of bearing hub covers.

Some trailers have a dust cap (painted or galvanized) on the end of the hub that protects the bearings. To add grease to this hub assembly, you must disassemble the hub. With this system, a semi-annual inspection and repacking of the bearings is recommended.

The second type of bearing system is a Posi-Lube spindle. On the end of the spindle is a small zirk fitting which allows grease to enter the spindle and get routed to the bearing surfaces. To lubricate this bearing, perform the following steps: Remove the dust cap from the hub exposing the zirk fitting. Using bearing grease, secure the grease gun to the posi-lube zirk fitting. Gently add grease. When grease comes out around the outer edge of the bearing, stop pumping grease. Reapply the dust cover when finished.

The third type uses Bearing Buddies, to ease lubrication of the bearing assembly. Bearing Buddies keep a positive pressure of grease on the bearings limiting the potential intrusion of water into the bearing assembly. To correctly lubricate a bearing equipped with Bearing Buddies, complete the following steps: Remove the protective bearing cover from the hub exposing the Bearing Buddy. Attach a grease gun (with bearing grease) to the zirk fitting at the center of the Bearing Buddy. Gently add grease. When the center plate of the Bearing Buddy starts traveling forward, stop adding grease. With experience, you will be able to feel the additional pressure against the grease gun when the Bearing Buddies are close to being filled.

If your trailer is not equipped with Bearing Buddies, you can purchase these components at several sporting good stores and on line at stores like Bass Pro Shops; they are a snap to install. You should repack your bearings at least once a year when equipped with Buddy Bearings or Posi-Lube spindles. If you have neither of these types, you will need to semi-annually pack your trailer bearings, or have them repacked by your dealer if you’re not sure you want to tackle this chore.

Your dealer will also perform the following: Remove the tire. Remove the dust cover or cap from the hub. If present, remove the Buddy Bearing. Remove the cotter pin from the spindle. If equipped with a tang washer (some torsion axles and posi-lube spindles), bend the ears of the washer and remove. CAUTION. Never re - use a tang washer. Never use anything but an actual tang washer. Reusing the tang washer or using a part other than a tang washer can cause the wheel to become separated from your trailer. This could cause serious property and personal damage. Back off the axle nut (the large nut on the threaded spindle). Remove the hub assembly from the axle. Disassemble the seals and bearings in the hub assembly.

Carefully clean the bearings and hub with mineral spirits (or other parts cleaning liquid). Clean the spindle where the hub is seated on the axle. Carefully inspect the spindle face, bearings, and hub compartment. If you notice any cracks, scoring or voids, replace the damage part. If metal shavings are present in the grease, replace all bearings and seals. Replace (do not reuse) grease seals, they are not expensive. Reassemble hub assembly with repacked bearings. Grease should be applied liberally to all surfaces. Place hub on spindle and secure with axle nut. While making sure that the bearings properly seat, never over-tighten axle nut. Insert new cotter pin or new tang washer. Do not reuse either cotter keys or tang washers. Bend securing device to lock axle nut. WARNING. By failing to use or improperly using an axle nut securing device (cotter pin or tang washer) you jeopardize your property, your safety, and the safety of others. Always ensure that cotter pins or tang washers have been properly installed. Next, re-apply Bearing Buddy and protective bearing cover. Secure tire to wheel (with 85 ft-lbs of torque per lug nut). Tire should spin freely, but not wobble when bearings have been properly packed, and adjusted. This procedure may have to be slightly modified if the trailer is equipped with brakes.

Next, let’s look at the tires. The most common cause of tire wear and tire problems is under inflation. Always check tire pressures when the tires are cold. The proper tire pressure is listed on the tire sidewall. Always keep tires properly inflated. Failure to maintain correct pressure will result in excess tire wear or tire failure and loss of control resulting in serious injury or property damage. If your tires have bubbles, deep cracks, or insufficient tread, or shows signs of tread separation (DO NOT TOW YOUR TRAILER) until replacing all defective tires.

Next let’s move to the lights. You need to have the trailer on the hitch, and the connectors coupled to test the lights. Verify that the white ground wire on the trailer is securely attached to the trailer frame. If your trailer lights have an independent grounding circuit, verify the grounds from the trailer lights are securely attached to the trailer frame. Be sure the wire harness connectors from the tow vehicle and from the trailer are free of corrosion. I always spray battery corrosion neutralizer into the female connector, and let sit for a while, then I blow out the connector. Next I will put a small amount of Die-electrode grease into the female connector, and push the male end into the connector, and then turn on the vehicle lights. Make sure the brake and turn signal lights, as well as the side markers correctly illuminate.

Check for burned out or broken bulbs, cracked or broken lenses, etc. Replace any non-working or damaged parts. Many trailers are equipped with snap-out inserts. These inserts allow you to easily access the bulbs by removing the insert. I always carry spare bulbs in my boats tool kit. Remember, operating a trailer without working lights is both dangerous and illegal. Always be sure your lights are working before taking your trailer on the road. Remember, disconnecting the wire harness connections prior to submerging the trailer will reduce the risk of light bulb failure, fuse failure or other electrical problems. Here is a simple but effective way to trouble shooting your electrical system. Lights don’t work: Verify wire harnesses are free of dirt, debris and water and are properly attached. Verify that the two harnesses properly mate. Check vehicles towing vehicle lights, make sure they are on and working. Check the ground on trailer and the ground on tail lights (if equipped with separate tail light ground circuit). Look for any pinched, frayed or cut wires and replace as necessary. Before replacing, disconnect the trailer from the tow vehicle and verify that there is no charge in the trailer wires.

Next let’s look at the brake system, if your trailer is equipped with brakes. Before each use I check the brake fluid in the reservoir on brake actuator. Refill if necessary using DOT 3 heavy-duty brake fluid to 3/8 of an inch below the top of the reservoir. If your trailer is equipped with disc brakes, be sure that the solenoid wire is securely attached to the tow vehicle’s brake wire. The trailer’s solenoid wire is a separate wire at the front of the trailer near the actuator. You need to attach this wire to a wire from the tow vehicle. The wire from the tow vehicle operates off of the tow vehicle’s reverse lights. When you put the tow vehicle in reverse, the power that illuminates the tow vehicle’s reverse lights also applies power to the solenoid releasing the brakes. Improperly engaging the reverse solenoid will result in brakes locking while backing-up the trailer and could cause damage to your trailer and your tow vehicle. Immediately after hook-up, always test and confirm that the trailer brakes are operating properly before attaining normal road speed. To prolong the life of your brakes, after you back up your trailer to park the trailer, ease forward approximately two inches. This will pull the actuator forward, relieving the pressure on the brake components.

Well, I hope this was easy for you to understand, and I hope that you will take the time to check your trailer now before the soft water fishing season is here. You’ll want to be on the water, not working on your trailer after it has broken down.

If you have any questions on anything in this article, you can e-mail me at either [email protected] or [email protected]. I’d like also to thank my friends at Crestliner Boats, Bombardier Motor Corp. Magic Products, Fish-Wisconsin.com, Fishtheriver.com, Landbigfish.com, CharlieBrewer Tackle, Lowrance locators, St.Croix Rods, Heckels Marine, Amherst Marine, Comprop Props, Big Fish Tackle Co., KD Taxidermy, Thermoilbatteries.com, Trojan Batteries, Pepsi of Americas, Beckman Nets, Pure Fishing Inc. Maurice Sporting Goods, Okuma Reels, Minn-Kota Trolling Motors, Aussie-Tackle Co., Exciter Baits, Today’s Tackle Co., Kabuki Baits, Mapping Specialist, Timberline Archery/Bait/Tackle, Tennesse Boat Trailers, About.com, Minnesota Sea Grant Program, Ohio Sea Grant Program, Wis. Sea Grant program, Kipawa Props, Terminator Tackle, Baitmaker Tackle, and Many, Many, others who have helped me along the way.

This article MAY NOT be reproduced, or used in Any Way without my written permission.
PLEASE CPR ALL FEMALES, THE FUTURE OF FISHING DEPENDS ON IT!!