If you�ve followed along as we discussed the components of a fly fishing system, it�s now time to put the whole caboodle together. I know of no better way to do this than by taking the components you selected and use them to illustrate several points.

In the many things we undertake, trial and error can sometimes be a good way to get started. It is my opinion, however, that fly fishing is not one of those things. Trial and error in fly fishing is as apt to end up in frustration, lost time, and wasted dollars as it is in success. Chance is a poor way to go about fly fishing because no one system will answer all of your fresh and saltwater needs or wants. Just remember that fly fishing is very much like golf -- in golf, no one club will do everything. Just as the tournament golfer needs a broad selection of clubs to play the course properly, so will the fly fisher require a selection of rods and lines to "play" the many and varied habitats of friend fish. From the brushy little creek, to placid mountain lakes, to wind swept beaches of the coasts, no one rod, reel, line, leader or fly will satisfy you in its ability to go after every fish. Like the golfer, you, too, need a selection of tools. I can only recommend that the fly fishing neophyte be best advised to gain the right introduction to the sport before going forward.

Tradeoffs. You already know that rods are not all alike -- the weight, length, and actions vary by manufacturer. You also know two other variables in rod selection: (1) the environment in which the rod is fished and (2) the primary species pursued. Let�s assume you�ve decided to occasionally fish the saltwater flats of Texas for speckled trout; the rivers and streams of New Mexico for rainbows; and small mouth bass in the rivers of the mid-west. Since you cannot afford "one of everything," you�ve decided to go with a 6-weight line married to a 9-foot, 6-weight, fast-action graphite rod. In reaching this decision, you recognized this line and rod are not perfectly suited for everything you might run into when fishing the salt flats, and said, "So what?" What�s wrong with your decision? Absolutely nothing! Having considered the alternatives, you made the required tradeoffs. No single rig can do everything, but some can do a lot more then you might think!

Now, let�s turn to the system you selected. If you selected a rig suited for saltwater, good on you. Just don't forget that there is a big difference between a 20 pound baby tarpon and his 200 pound Papa. While we have already discussed flies including the broad range in size and selection fly fishers have, there is some truth to the old saw, "Big flies for big fish and little flies for little fish." There is, however, more truth in this saying: "Big rods cast big flies and little rods cast little flies."

Before going further, let me suggest to you an operating premise for your fly fishing adventure: It takes two hands to do it right. One hand is called the rod hand and the other, the rod hand. This applies during both the cast and the retrieve. At issue: Which of your hands does what?

Here are a series of questions you should ask yourself: (1) Which hand is your Master Hand? (2) Will you be casting with your right or left hand? And (3) during the retrieve, will you wind the reel with your left or right hand? Your answers will make some difference in your setup; more importantly, your answers today will either add or detract from your fishing pleasure tomorrow. Changing your mind tomorrow can, at the very least, place you at a disadvantage.

How you use your hands is important! Here's why -- Assuming the right hand is the master, some fly fishers are perfectly content to cast with their right hand and, having completed the cast, transfer the rod to their left hand allowing the left hand to control the rod while the right hand controls the reel and the retrieving of line. You might say these folks are really right, right-handed! Others prefer to cast with their right hand, manipulating the reel and controlling the line with their left throughout the cast and retrieve. In other words, the rod hand is clearly the right hand, and the left hand is the line hand. A few right-handed fly fishers, and most left-handed folks, have no trouble casting with the left hand while manipulating and controlling the line with the right hand throughout the sequence. In this case, the left hand is the rod hand.

Before going further, look down on the reel and note how the handle is mounted. If the handle is on the left side and it retrieves line by winding it forward, the reel is setup for a left hand retrieve; if the handle is on the right side, and it retrieves line by winding it forward, the reel�s setup for a right hand retrieve. Almost any reel can be changed from a right to a left hand retrieve by simply following the manufacturer�s instruction. But be sure you choose before loading the line and backing unless you are into self-flagellation. Switching a loaded reel from right to left or left to right requires removing all the line and all backing -- first! Stripping a reel is not what I call fun, especially given the ever-present chance or likelihood of a tangle. That�s really fun�.

Leaving the rod in one hand for both the cast and the retrieve while manipulating the reel and line with the other seems to me the most practical alternative. But what's good for me may not be right for you. The preference for "which hand does what" is something best decided by you and you alone. No one else can do anything other than express his or her bias. To "make" you go one way or another is dead wrong. Once you�ve made your decisions, read on.

Begin at the Beginning. With rod, line and reel now in hand, and accompanied by a few knotless leaders and flies you picked up along the way, let�s put the system together. The sequence of steps outlined is my preference. Follow these steps and you won�t forget something you might later regret.

• Reel Preparation. With reel in hand, the first thing to be done is the installation of the backing line to the reel. Be sure the reel is properly setup for the hand you intend to use when fishing. Since the subject of backing has been covered, I will assume you�ve made your decision and the backing, too, is on hand in sufficient yardage and test weight. Many "experts" make the attachment to the spool using an overhand slip knot, and if you already tie this knot, use it. Personally, I prefer the Duncan loop as depicted earlier. It, too, slips, but not on the reel spool when reversed. Besides, the more frequently you tie a particular knot, the better you get at avoiding every knot�s weakness: "when a knot is not a knot, it�s not!"

  Having tied the backing to the spool, how you load it can be critical -- load the backing tightly under tension, particularly if it is a micro-fiber material. Load it tightly prevents a tangle deep in the backing that can occur if the backing is loose. It's happened before and it will happen again, but with luck, not to you.

  With the backing loaded to the spool, we�ve accomplished two things: (1) a nice cushion has been laid down for the fly line to coil about reducing the likelihood of line set, and (2) we have provided insurance against the long run of a trophy fish. If you stay with this sport, someday you will offer thanks for this step, because it will allow you to play and land fish that would otherwise break off during the battle.

• Preparing the Line Connection. Next, take the loose end of the backing line and tie a large surgeon�s end loop. This loop will become the connecting loop to the fly line. Tie the surgeon�s end loop somewhat big � about 8 inches in length � to permit changing fly lines when extra spools or cassettes are not available. You will see such a switch isn�t possible if the reel is unable to pass through the loop. I believe this is the way to go even if you never change fly lines. The surgeon�s end loop is strong enough!

  Fly Line Attachment. If you�ve purchased a double (DT) taper fly line, either end can be attached to the backing. This is not true in the case of either a weight forward (WF) or a shooting tapers (ST). With a weight forward (WF) line, it makes a big difference which end is attached. Fortunately, almost all manufacturers attach a small sticky label to the line that says, "This end to reel." Before going on, be certain you�ve have the right end of the line going to the reel!

  If you think I am going to suggest making a small loop in the back end of the fly line, you are absolutely right. There are two ways to make the loop: (1) use a fly tier�s bobbin securing the loop by wrapping (whipping) it with thread and tie off with a series of half-hitch knots or as you would install a guide wrapping; (2) install a braided loop following the manufacturer�s directions. After completing the loop, be sure to seal it with head cement followed by a coating of waterproof clear lacquer. The smaller and finer the loop, the better: the end loop must be able to pass smoothly through the guides when a trophy fish decides to run away. If it can�t pass through the guides, the knot "jams" against the guides. The result will be a lost fish and, potentially, a damaged rod.

  Next, loop the fly line and the backing together. Pass the long loop of the backing through the end loop of the fly line and, once through, pass the coil of fly line through the large end loop of the backing. (That�s why the backing end loop is so big.) Tighten until the ends are snug. When finished, be certain the shoulders of the loop connection looks like a square knot as depicted here. Then load the fly line to the reel. Take care to level the line as it is retrieved or loaded to the spool.

  It�s time now to fix a loop in the front end of the fly line. And it�s your choice -- use either a loop-to-loop connector as available from either Orvis or Cortland or tie-off and finish the loop just as you did moments ago with the other end of the line. Now, to finish setting up the fly line, tie a surgeon�s end loop on the butt of the leader. With the looped ends of the line and leader in hand, pass the fly line�s end loop through the leader loop; once through, pass the opposite end of the leader through the fly line�s end loop. Snug the loops together taking care to insure the loops join as depicted above.

  Assembling the Rod. Setting aside the reel, it�s time to put the rod together. I will assume you bought graphite. There really isn�t much to the process except care and precision. Whether a two, three or four-piece rod, when your rod is assembled all the guides should be in perfect alignment. Here is a technique that will prolong the life of your rod. Before assembling the rod, lube the male ferrules of each section with a special blend of hard wax available from most suppliers. When joining one section to another, begin by turning one section off-center so that its guides are about 45 degrees out of alignment with the other. Then as you join the sections, twist and turn the male ferrule until it is set and aligned.

• Reel to Rod Installation. Depending on whether you have selected an up or down-locking handle design, secure the reel to the rod by tightening the screw rings tight. The reel should hang from the bottom of the rod. Looking down, you should see the handle of the reel in the left or right crank position�according to the hand you intend to use to wind the reel during the retrieve. Be certain the reel mount is tight.
• Threading the Rod with Leader and Fly Line. Strip off enough leader and line to pass through and clear the guides. Before threading the line, it�s a good idea to support the rod butt preventing damage to either the rod or reel by accidentally banging either on the ground. Avoid concrete! Sooner or later, bad things will happen. Now double the fly line near the leader-line connector, and begin threading the looped line. The reason you double the line is simply to avoid having the line & leader run back down and out of the guides if your fingers slip. When and if that does happen, you get the joy of looking stupid as well as the opportunity to start all over again.
• Tying the Fly to the Tippet. Whether tying on a fly or a small amount of fluffy yarn to practice with, I suggest using the Duncan loop, as we earlier discussed. Why not one of the others? Simple. The others do not serve the multi-purpose functions inherent to the Duncan loop. In the first place, it�s a very strong knot that draws up smoothly. Just remember make at least five wraps when forming the knot, as earlier depicted. Second, the Duncan loop closes under pressure to make a tight joint with the fly. While in the loop configuration, it acts as a shock absorber against the strike of a strong fish, preventing an early break-off. Finally, the fly � whether streamer, diver, or bottom bumper � is able to swim freely in the loop. When you are attempting to imitate a natural, this is very important.

Next up, the discussion continues with, "To Catch a Fish." And now a thought about the fly cast: "False casting a fly excessively is likely to catch only a cloud. Although fat free, pan-fried clouds have little taste." God Bless you and yours.

� Copyright: Douglas G. Macnair, 1999 - 2001.