Background: The evolution of the Micro-Munch jig. In 1991 I spent two weeks in the Ocala National Forest fishing some of the clearest water I have ever seen. In order to catch bass consistently, I had to scale down my approach. I was basically what you would consider a power fisherman at the time and realized that I would have to totally change my style to be successful. I did and I had a great trip, I even won two local tournaments on the St. John’s River. From the end of that trip to the beginning of 1995, I had transformed myself to a finesse fisherman and adapted many of the West Coast finesse methods to employ on my New York waters. I was experiencing amazing results with more bites, more fish and more large fish. Scanning my logs, I found that I had taken over 250 largemouth over 5lbs during the legal NY season from 1991-1995. I had completely switched from traditional sized baits to light and ultra light tackle for fun. I wasn’t a serious tournament angler so I really had no need for heavy equipment.

By the end of the 1994 season I had totally transferred my arsenal of baits. I had collected a complete line of light tackle baits in all genres, or so I thought. I had begun to realize that I hadn’t picked up a flippin’ stick and thrown a jig-n-pig in about 4 years. I knew that jigs in general attracted a larger bite than many other types of baits but at the time there were few if any true light tackle options. I soon realized I would have to build my own jig and tried to include all of the characteristics that make a jig successful into the package while at the same time being careful to accommodate the bait to 4 & 6lb. test. I immediately got turned on to Float -n- Fly guru Charlie Nuckols, who helped in my quest to find the ultimate light tackle jig -n- pig. I realized that I wanted a small head, about 1/16oz. & 1/8oz. on a large hook. I started out with a size 1/0 and eventually settled on a 3/0. The first jigs were equipped with Eagle Claw Lazer Sharp hooks which were ultimately replaced by the bronze Mustad Accupoints now currently used. I figured that a fiber weed guard might impede on the hookset with the light lines I was using so Charlie suggested a wire weed guard which proved to be a gem. I wanted to give the bait a thick, but short profile so I went with a short trimmed skirt and completed the package with a 2" twin tail grub trailer. At the time the ballhead was the only head I could get. I liked it and stuck with it. I don’t like paint in my jig eyes but found that powder paint cut down on that. So now I had my prototype which I made in two colors: Pumpkin and Pumpkin Chartreuse.

My first tests were on Schoharie Creek and Catskill Creek for smallies. I immediately started with positive results, so much that I know I would have to expand the colors. The real test for this jig would be Long Island. Forge Pond turned out to be my proving grounds. It was as trophy a fishery as I could get on LI and was only a few miles away from my house. The first few weeks of testing produced unbelievable catches including 3 bass over 8lbs. I knew I was on to something but still felt I could improve the bait. I had added a Zoom Skinny Chunk to top the bait off and resumed catching large bass. The jig was so successful because of its slow fall and tantalizing movements. I literally couldn’t keep fish away. The numbers of bass were staggering. I was used to having a 15 to 30 bass day, which I considered a good outing. I was now catching anywhere between 50 and 100 bass a day on average. About 70% of these fish were keeper size (12" NY state). I knew I had a special bait. I had been making these jigs for myself and a few friends. I ignored their prompting to go into business. The little jig remained the same until the 1999 fishing season when I went to a Mustad needle point hook for both strength, holding power and sharpness. It turned out to be a big improvement as I added the performance of a high end hook without having to spend a ton of money. Next I had begun experimenting with colors, modeling the skirts after successful plastic worm colors I used for years on LI.

By 1999 I had topped the 1000 mark for largemouth bass over 5lbs and over 100 smallmouth larger than 5lbs. A tremendous amount of these fish were claimed by the tiny unnamed jig n pig. In late Fall of 1999, I fished with an outdoor writer for a popular local publication. He commented how the bass were eating the micro jig up, I added "they munch on it". A lightning bolt struck me on the head and now I had a name for my jig. The Micro-Munch jig was born. In Feb. of 2000 my wife gave birth to our first child and I was away from the computer for a period of about two weeks. When I returned, I had hundreds of requests for my jigs. Some friends of mine had saturated the internet with talk of my jigs. Now I knew I had to start a business based on my tiny homemade jig.

The Bait: 1/16oz Micro-Munch Jig with Zoom Skinny Chunk trailer matching color or 1/8oz Micro-Munch Jig with 2 ½" Snoozer Split tail trailer.

Equipment: I throw this jig on spinning gear almost exclusively. The light weight of the jig makes it difficult to cast on bait casting tackle, even with best set ups. With the larger 1/8oz model this becomes a reality. I think that the most critical aspect to success with this bait is the rod choice. You absolutely must utilize a fast action light rod that has plenty of backbone. This stiff backbone will help you detect strikes and ultimately set the hook. This is still light tackle fishing but not the buggy whip style rod associated with it. I opt for a high modulus strain of graphite such as IM7 or IM8 blanks. I also choose raised match guides and cork handles that screw down over the real seat. My first rod for this bait was a Cabela’s 5 ft. light action Tourney Trail rod that I still use today when wading. It handles the jig nicely and has caught a ton of brute sized bass for me including a 9-14 largemouth.

For boat fishing I prefer a longer rod for leverage and quick line pick up. If I’m not using a homemade rod, I stick with Bass Pro Shops Bionic Blade XPS series in 6 foot light action BN60LS or 5-6 BN56LS. Even though these are considered light rods, they have plenty of backbone and are right at home playing big fish. For most spinning applications I prefer light weight spinning reels with multiple BB’s, a quick gear ratio, wide arbor spool, instant anti reverse and a smooth front drag. I’m a big fan of Pinnacle DNF25 and DLF25 Deadbolt series reels as they offer all of the features I want at a decent price (about $50.00). These reels weight between 7 and 8 ounces which to me is another plus because they balance the BPS rods nicely.

Line: I prefer 6 or 8lb Bagley’s Super Silver Thread for light jigging. This mono offers thin diameter, decent knot and abrasion resistance, low memory and superior tensile strength. I have been experimenting with Spiderwire 6/20 and 6/30 with success but feel that if you have problems with loops on your spinning gear this may be a bad choice. I tie direct to the jig with a Palomar knot.

Trailer: I don’t want to get into a debate about pork or plastic but I opt for plastic. It is less messy and comes in some great colors. Besides, I package the jigs with a trailer and pork wouldn’t be feasible. I use several types of trailers. First I used the 2" twin tail grub on the 1/16oz jig which is a great combo. It is very lively in the water. I switched to a Zoom Skinny Chunk which gave the bait bulk with out adding weight. This was a good choice as bigger fish prefer a bit more mass and I cut down the number of smaller bites. My newest "favorite" trailer is a Snoozers 2 ½" Split tail that is naturally scented and frankly smells like a week old egg salad sandwich, a scent I noticed bass love. This also adds a bit of bulk and is softer as it is a handpour.

On the water fishing - lakes and ponds: I approach still water and moving water very differently. When fishing lakes and ponds, I use the MMJ from early Spring to early Fall. I prefer to fish it when the water is between 58 and 75 degrees. I’ve caught fish consistently at other temperatures but this is what I consider the Trophy Range as it is here that I get most of my big bites. The little jig has proven effective in both clear and stained water. In clear water, I prefer natural hues such as watermelon, natural plum, bluegill, natural chart/watermelon, cranberry, brown, black, rootbeer, pumpkinseed, green pumpkin and smoke. In stained water I jazz it up a bit with some louder colors like firetiger, junebug, redshad, metallic blue/purple, electric blue, grape and copper kamo. The light weight of these jigs basically delegates it to shallow water use. I normally fish the 1/16oz jig in water up to 8 feet deep. A friend of mine, Pat Xiques, has fished the 1/16oz in over 20 feet of water for schooling smallies and mopped up with it. The 1/8oz jig is better equipped for waters down to 15 feet. Thin diameter line makes 20 to 25 feet a possibility but after that you tend to lose contact with the bait. My game plan with this jig is similar to most other jig strategies. I target visible cover and pick it apart with multiple casts from multiple directions.

I originally started using this bait in tiny rivers that were overgrown with overhead cover making a skip cast the only viable way to cast the lure. With this cast I can actually punch through cover and obstructions and even get the bait farther back into the areas than any other method. Much of my success is due to the ability to present this lure to fish that just don’t get to see baits because live deep inside cover. Once I skip the bait back to my target, it sinks ever so slowly. This slow fall allows the jig to stay in the strike zone longer than heavier baits. This is another important trait to the success of the lure. Most strikes occur on the initial fall of the MMJ. I usually notice a solid thump or see my line move off rapidly when a fish bites. If the initial fall fails to attract a hit, I let the bait rest on the bottom and slowly inch the bait along or jiggle it ever so slightly. This mimics the movement of a crawfish and helps the skirt and trailer flare and breath. I do not fish this jig back to the boat. Once I feel that the bait is out of the strike zone, I reel in and cast again. I try to crash the bait into obstructions and skip it to make a bit of commotion as I don’t feel that this effects the bass negatively in the stained waters I fish. I feel that the skip cast is the most accurate presentation with this bait as it allows me to get right on top of the areas I target. The light weight of the jig isn’t conducive to flipping and I simply can’t flip this bait 8 or 9 feet under a dock like I could if I skipped it. In lakes and ponds I target docks, bushes and trees, bridge pilings, floats, boat houses, covered boats and just about any other types of visible cover. The MMJ is a surprisingly effective sight fishing bait as it is one of the few baits I throw to visible bass.

On the water - fishing rivers and streams: I designed this jig for slow moving rivers and it is right at home in current. I have found it has an uncanny ability to produce smallmouth bass just about anywhere I’ve fished it. I prefer to fish the jig when water temperatures are between 60 and 78 degrees. I have had more than a few 100 smallmouth days when fishing the jig in bathtub warm waters during the dog days of August. When fishing rivers and streams, I concentrate mainly on current breaks. I try to find large boulders, eddies, pools and any obstructions that slow water down. Bass tend to use these areas as ambush points and for sanctuary from the fast moving water. Here they lie in wait for a hapless morsel to be washed to them. I always look for dark colored rock because in my opinion, smallmouth tend to blend in better with them and I’ve had good success around them. In cooler water they hold heat better thus holding bass. I cast 5 to 10 feet ahead of the boulder and let the current tumble the jig toward the break. Once it enters the break I prepare for a bite. If I don’t get hit using the 1/16oz jig, I’ll switch to the 1/8oz because the water may be pulling it through the funnel too fast. The heavier jigs should get to the bottom easier. I think that most fish hold directly behind a break on the bottom, so it is essential to get the bait down to them. Be careful that you don’t snag the bottom as the river will tend to claim some jigs. Once you find that zone, don’t implement too much action in the jig as craws are slow movers when not trying to escape.. If you do hang up, often a pop of the rod will get you free and may even cause a strike.

I’m always looking for areas with slower or faster flow inside the normal flow of water. These signal several important things to me. Faster areas are usually chutes that force water through narrow areas and actually speed the water up. Here the bass will wait at the end of a chute in slack water and feed on forage that are funneled to them. I usually cast to the head of the chute and let the bait come through it. It normally gets clobbered just as it enters the slack water. Slower moving water signals an underwater current break, perhaps a rock below the surface. It takes a skilled eye to find these areas as the deeper the obstruction, the more normal the water speed is. When fishing in these areas I target ahead of the current break. The normal flow of water will bring the jig into the eddy area where the fish are waiting. Pools tend to hold some of the bigger bass that a small river has to offer in general. These fish don’t tolerate swift water like their smaller kin. Here I cast to deeper areas and let the jig just sink like a do nothing type of retrieve. I’m looking for two things, obstructions and bottom current. If I lose contact with an 1/8oz jig in 8 to 10 feet of water, I know that there is current near the bottom and that I should find a better spot. Remember I’m targeting bigger fish that I believe don’t want to chase a bait down. I have found that river bass seem more enthusiastic to strike a jig. They usually are not shy about the way they hit it. Most times they hit and run and as an angler you know it!!

Why the small jig is effective: The MMJ is effective because of several key factors. First and foremost, the slow fall of the bait keeps it in the strike zone for the longest possible time. This may actually annoy fish into striking. With this, I feel you lose the reaction bite you get with heavier baits that fall through the strike zone faster, but it isn’t a disadvantage. Second, the baits’ compact size is a perfect match for the preferred size of young forage. Small 2 to 3 inch crawfish and baitfish make up a large percentage of adult bass forage. Lastly, the compact size of the MMJ is less intrusive than larger baits so you are less apt to spook fish. This is an extremely natural bait and presentation and I don’t feel it gives off many, if any, negative cues.

Modifications: With the success of the ballhead jigs came the desire to change things up a little. I started molding the 1/8oz MMJ into a Football head with a double wire weedguard and 3/0 hook. I still use the short skirt on it. This jig has been fantastic in rocky smallmouth waters as the head prevents it from snagging on the rocks. Dubbed the Rock Assassin, this jig can easily accommodate a double rattle. The rattles give this jig a crawfish clicking sound that can often trigger strikes. I don’t skip this jig in shallow cover instead opting to fish deeper waters. Here I look for rock piles, rock channel markers and deeper structure. I also make an Arkie head 1/8oz jig for true flipping. It features a beefed up fiber weedguard, full size skirt and also a 3x strong hook. This one is great on bait casting gear as the addition of a trailer gives it extra weight and brings it closer to 3/16oz. The jig can be worked through thicker cover than the wireguard jigs. I’ve thrown this bait in just about every tournament I’ve fished and it usually produces.

Conclusion: The MMJ has become my confidence bait and for good reason. It is a deadly bass catcher. It is very easy to pick up and learn in a short time. I am always looking to update my line of baits. Whether it is a unique color of silicone to a new head style, I like to offer something unique and different. All of my baits feature American made components and are handmade one at a time. I am constantly refining my products to meet custom demands to make the baits the best they can be. Our tournament staff has amassed more than 20 amateur tournament victories in 2000(May to Sept). We have a devoted following throughout the East Coast and Mid West.