Using a jig for bass is one of the most perplexing fishing methods there is. It's best not to think too much about it, and just learn to use it. There really is not much to a jig, no matter how much we try to put in it. It's a simple bait, and it's action is totally created by the angler, but it is probably the most versatile bait on the scene. While it's common to envision the jig as a target bait, pitched, flipped or tossed to close cover, it truly shines as an open water bait, thrown long over both shallow and deep water. The jig is not thought of as a "coverage" or "search" bait, but learning to cover open water areas with a jig can make it the ultimate weapon in getting quality bass to the boat when other methods fall short.

The jig is always productive, and a time proven method throughout all of the fishing seasons. I'll start with how a jig works for me during the pre-spawn season. During pre-spawn, many bass will be staged at different depths, or roaming flats looking for bedding areas. First of course, bedding areas must be located. Two primary things that determine good bedding areas are break lines or travel routes such as creek channels with cover, and flats with cover on them. Bass like to bed around cover when they can, and will look for it during pre-spawn. My favorite cover to find big bass on is stumps. Stumps in open water areas hold a lot of bass that many people over look. Bass will relate to and bed on stumps miles off shore if they can find adequate current breaks, and the right type of bottom with adequate cover. Stumps on shallow ledges or on open water humps are perfect for a jig bite. If I know bass have moved up onto a ledge, flat or hump, and cannot be seen, I'll put a jig out there to find them. My usual set up is a 3/8oz jig, black and blue, a 7 foot medium heavy action rod, and a fast reel loaded with 17lb test line. I'll make very long throws with the jig over the flat, and lay the rod tip down. While cranking and twitching the rod tip, I keep the jig moving past stumps or other cover. Something about a jig digging along the bottom, stirring up clouds of "dust" really triggers pre-spawn bass. I make sure the jig does not leave the bottom, and keep it moving with only short stops between drags with the rod tip. If I find a piece of cover, I'll throw and drag the jig past it several times. I use the same technique when fishing break lines. I sit off the break line, throw up onto the top of the hump, ledge or flat, and drag the jig in the same manner down the slope past the cover. Keeping the jig moving on the bottom gives the fish little time to "think" about what it is, and often they'll chase it down and inhale it.

This same "dragging" technique works wonders for open water bedding bass in stained water. Bedding bass may pass up the traditional search baits, but if a jig comes crawling through the bedding area, it represents a real threat that they will not often pass up. In clear water, if I can see the fish, I'll make the long throws with the jig past the bedding area, and drag it into the bedding area. Longer throws often mean quicker strikes for bass that would be wary when the boat is close to them. If you know bass are in the area, they can be found with the jig by covering water using long throws and fan casting over the area. Many times, I've caught bass in an area on crank baits and spinner baits, then followed up with the jig over the same water to put bigger fish in the boat.

For post spawn bass in deeper water, I choose the jig over the Carolina rig. Often the jig means fewer fish, but bigger fish, and I'm all about hunting bigger fish. Frequently when bass see a Carolina rig, the first thing they hit is the weight dragging on the bottom. Heck, why not have a hook in it? I love to throw a jig over deep open water structure. Again, I keep the rod tip down and make sure the jig drags the bottom in a semi-steady movement that would imitate a crayfish digging along the bottom. Bass have this curiosity thing that gets them into trouble. If it is crawling on the bottom, stirring up dust, and they can't tell it's a jig, they'll eat it because they think it's a crayfish. At least that's my theory. At any rate, I catch consistently bigger fish on a jig than a Carolina rig in the same areas.

Post spawn bass in deep water that are suspended can be had using jigs that imitate bait fish. Both hair jigs and regular flipping jigs with swimming style chunks work great. Throwing them long, letting them hit the bottom and then ripping them up with the rod tip, or just pumping them in the strike zone is a great way to get large bass in the boat. When fishing for suspended bass, you can keep a jig in the strike zone longer than a crank bait, and get it much deeper than most cranks can run. This is where the white jigs, bait fish colors and heavier ½ to 1 oz jig weights come in handy. Most of the time in deep water, as with spooning, bass will hit the jigs on the fall, and many times on the initial fall. Paying close attention to the line and movement of the jig is critical at all times. Be ready to set the hook from the moment the jig hits the water.

Using a jig that imitates a bait fish in open water is another untapped method. Swimming a jig with a big chunk past cover in shallow water is very productive, especially in grass or thick brush. A light jig with a thick skirt, and a swimming chunk is very buoyant. Swimming it just under the surface very fast, or even on top can be explosive. Special swimming jigs are made with lightweight heads for this purpose, and very few anglers take time to master the technique of swimming jigs. It's a matter of cranking while giving it action at the same time with the rod tip. A fast "twitching" action works very well, or a slow pumping motion if the bass are in the mood for a slower presentation. Taking a frog colored jig, throwing it on the bank and hopping it into shallow water grass or pads is often an arm breaking experience for big bass. Swimming it through cane, reeds and other standing grass also works great. Big swimming jigs look like frogs, and big bass eat big frogs. The key is making the jig look alive.

Perhaps my favorite method of using jigs in open water is when the grass is growing on flats, points and ledges. A bass has a strike zone that is 360 degrees around it. Sometimes the strike zone is big, and sometimes small, but it is bigger than many people would believe. I've seen bass zip 10 feet and nail a jig pitched into 3 feet of water, getting it before it hits the bottom. To cover water on grass flats, I like to throw the jig into open areas of grass. It's the same concept as pitching with regard to the strikes. Bass hit the jig on the initial fall 90% of the time in open water grass, but you just have to be more aware, and take up the slack better when setting the hook when you are making longer throws into grass beds. Of course, the rule applies, the thicker the cover the shorter the cast, right down to pitching. But if grass is scattered, water is clear, and bass are shy, throwing the jig is the deal. An underhanded long throw, controlled to make a minimal splash is perfect. Sometimes however I think the splash helps the bass locate the bait in the strike zone, so I don't worry about the silent entry when working a jig over open water grass. Since bass hit the jig on the initial fall, or within the first couple hops, when using a jig as an open water search bait I don't leave the jig on the bottom for long. I throw it, let it drop, hop it a couple times then crank it back and throw it again. In this case, it's not how long you leave it there, but the number of initial falls the jig makes which is the key. You can cover a lot of water this way, and put some big bass in the boat in the process. There are times however, especially if you know there are inactive or really big bass present, that you should leave the jig on the bottom without moving it. Sort of throwing it and "dead sticking" it. Knowing the activity level of the bass determines when to keep it moving and when to leave it laying. Really big fish often require slower presentation, or at least numerous drops in the same area to get the strike.

When the grass gets thicker, I'll go to pitching the jig in the holes. Pitching in open water grass beds is a great way to find big fish, even in the dawg days of summer they can be found in the shady shallows around open water grass mats. Dropping a heavy jig through thick mats of heavy open water grass is also productive. This is another job for jigs in the ¾ to 1.5 ounce class. Sometimes it requires throwing the jigs up into the air, and jerking it down so it blasts through the mat, then working it up and down under the mat a few times before repeating.

When bass are active on the edge of grass lines, I try to position the boat just out from where the grass stops growing in deeper water. I'll make long throws to the edge of the grass line and work the jig down the slope to the edge of the submerged grass line. Sometimes grass in water 12 to 15 feet deep will hold a lot of bass that anglers will fish right over.

There are many types of trailers on the market, but I find when using a jig in open water, crayfish type trailers work well. Threading the crayfish trailers on the jig hook help keep them from getting fouled on the hook. When using regular style chunks, I always put a small piece of finesse worm on the hook shank first to keep the chunk from slipping down the shank during pitching or during initial entry into the water. I got away from pork years ago, as I have discovered that plastic chunks and craws perform as well in all conditions, and are much easier to deal with. I prefer custom hand poured craws and chunks, as they can be ordered exactly the way you want them. I normally use custom pours by Snake Bite Custom fishing tackle. I do not like chunks or craws that are made with salt. If you use a chunk with salt in it, make sure you remove it from your jig, and don't leave it in the jig box or it will rust those high dollar hooks.

Quality gear really helps when jig fishing. Performance is the main issue. I use two types of rods fishing jigs. I use a St Croix AC7MHF, or a St Croix AC66MHF. The 7 foot rod I use for pitching or throwing 3/8oz jigs and heavier. The 6'6" rod is perfect for lighter jigs with lighter line. For jigs under a 1/4oz, such as hair jigs or bitsy bugs, I like the AC68MXF, which is the perfect lighter action rod.

I use McCoy's Mean Green line. Since it has little memory it works great for baits that require contact during the fall. A jig on the end of line that is coiled up is impossible to feel, and so is the fish when it eats the jig. Low memory line is a must, and the McCoy's holds up well under the extreme use it gets in my guide boat. Be sure you choose a low-memory line. Many of my friends use braids when jig fishing, but I prefer the forgiveness of mono lines in jig applications.

I use the Shimano Curado high speed reels. It goes without saying how well the Curados hold up and perform. Even after several years of daily use they continue to crank jig bass out of the cover.

I make many of my own jigs. I don't get into the fancy aspects of jig fishing. I don't use rattles, I don't get worked up if the paint chips off the head, etc. I keep my selection of jigs very simple. I do prefer a strong hook such as an Owner, and usually 4/0 to 5/0 hook on a 3/8oz jig. I will downsize the jigs during periods of really cold water, or when bass are very inactive. Then I'll go to the 1/4oz or lighter. Black and blue is my primary color, although I do use green pumpkin in very clear water. A little secret I keep, when the bass get keyed in on crayfish, I'll dye the chunk or match the chunk with the crayfish color. Often in the spring the crayfish turn bright orange, and dipping a green pumpkin chunk with orange can really make a difference in the number of strikes and the way the fish take the jig. It's rare that color makes much difference in my fishing, but when the crayfish turn orange, so do my jigs. Match the prey, and keep it simple and natural. I love to find good custom made jigs. Hand tied jigs are the best. Bone Head jigs, created by Lynn Wilson are not available on the market, but are true works of art. Lynn creates any custom colors and sizes, shapes etc to match any condition, so I rely on his creations for many of my jig applications. Finding a good custom maker is a true blessing and worth the search. My favorite factory jigs include Oldham's jigs, which are sold by SOB Lures. The Oldham's are well built and have premium strong hooks.

There is almost no limit to the ways jigs can be fished. If you can make it look alive, it will catch fish. It's no myth, no urban legend, learning to be versatile with the jig is the way to improve the quality of fish that come in the boat.