Since those of you reading this column will live in various parts of the country, you’ll probably learn to flyfish through a variety of sources. Those sources include classes sponsored by a fly shop, clinics or classes sponsored by flyfishing clubs or organizations, or classes offered by colleges or universities, or private guides. Regardless of where you take a class, you should ask to see the class outline so you will know what to expect.

I recommend that you look for a beginning flyfishing class that covers equipment, knot tying and leader construction, an introduction to the flies that flyfishers use in your area, as well as fly casting. And, if possible, I recommend that you take a class taught by a woman. Women tell me they feel more comfortable learning a new skill and more willing to ask questions when they do so in the company of other women.

Equipment
Your class should begin by discussing the importance of having your rod, reel, and line match. It should discuss rod lengths and weights and should relate different rods to the types of fish they catch. It should also provide you with an understanding of the differences between fly rods and spinning or bait casting rods. Other information about rods should include a general discussion of graphite (the material most rods are made of today), the different degrees of flex or “action” of different rods (and why that makes a difference), and, of course, the cost. With this information you can decide which rod(s) are best for the type(s) of fishing you plan to do.

The class should include information about the different types of reels, and a discussion of why most flyfishers use a disc-drag reel. Your instructor should have different reels available to show you how they operate and how to change the spools that hold the flyline. The reels should be set up so that when you cast, you can try reeling with either your right or left hand. That way, you can determine which you prefer, so you’ll know how to have your own reel set up at the shop.

Different lines should also be discussed so that you know the differences between floating, sinking and sinking tip lines and when to use each one. Line

taper types is another important subject related to flylines. I also show my classes how to clean a flyline to keep it performing well for a long time.

No equipment presentation is complete without information about waders, wading boots, and vests. Your instructor might discuss the pros and cons of the new gortex vs. neoprene waders and the advantages and disadvantages of boot foot vs. stocking foot waders. And, you should also hear about the problems that occur with boots that are too small.

Knots and Leaders
While many flyfishers use commercially prepared leaders between their fly line and their fly, the best classes will be those that teach you about leader construction and knot tying so you can design your own leader for the fishing conditions. The three basic knots that your instructor should teach are the nail knot for tying the butt of your leader to the flyline (most of us now do this knot with a handy little tool), the blood knot or triple surgeon’s knot for tying different diameters of monofilament to each other, and the improved clinch knot for tying on your fly.

Although some classes require you to learn the “x” formulas for leader and tippet diameter, that is very confusing for many people. It’s enough in the beginning that you learn what pound-test monofilament to use in constructing basic leaders for the fish in your area.

Once you know the basic knots, you can eliminate the loop-to-loop system that requires a permanent loop on the end of your flyline for matching up the loop on a commercial leader. While the loop system may be faster than tying your own knots, it causes more wind resistance and somewhat impedes the transfer of energy from your rod tip out to your fly. You’ll also save a good deal of money over time if you can tie your own leaders, to say nothing of achieving a real sense of accomplishment in mastering one of fly fishing’s most traditional skills.

Flies
The fly is the flyfisher’s direct link to the fish, and an introductory class should acquaint you with the flies most flyfishers in your area use. Those include dry flies, that float on the surface, nymphs, that are imitations of the immature bugs and are fished under the surface, and streamers or attractors, that represent other “under-water” food sources such as small bait fish, leeches, or fresh water shrimp. Hook types, as well as fly sizes and colors are also an important part of the discussion.

Most flyfishing classes also discuss which flies are used for the fishing in the vicinity of the class location, and how and when different flies are fished. You should go away from the class with a list of flies and their uses so you know what flies to buy for your different fishing excursions. Flies are expensive and that’s one reason why so many flyfishers learn to tie them. You can easily spend twenty dollars on flies for one trip, so learn the flies you should be using.

Casting
Fly casting is, of course, the heart of flyfishing. A beginning class should teach you the basic overhead cast, the roll cast for use when there are trees or other obstructions behind you, and the sidearm cast for casting in the wind and getting your fly under overhanging vegetation.

As you learn to cast, your instructor will stress that control of your fly line is the most important aspect of casting. Accuracy is next most important, with long distance casting being third in importance. You’ll learn how to position your arm hand and body, establish a casting range and rhythm, and “load” the rod with the energy from your shoulder and arm by stopping sharply at certain points.

Of course, you’re going to have to practice after your class, both on the water and in your backyard or at a local park. The important part is to get started! Visit my web site to read some “tips” on the most common casting errors and how to correct them.

©2001 Cecilia “Pudge” Kleinkauf, Owner, Women’s Flyfishing®