Rods Made Simple for the Terminally Confused
Rods Made Simple for the Terminally Confused
Super extra-heavy action with 923 billion modulus and alien technology guides in a 28 piece telescoping, self inflating rod with AM/FM and free mud flaps. Sound familiar? Fishing rods are a complex offering, and are becoming more so every year. The diverse methods of marking and naming only serves to make things even more confusing.
The choice of a rod can be a blessing or a curse in any given angling situation. "No pressure", right? Well, I'm here to burn away the fog of doubt, confusion and misapprehension that clouds the process.
First, let's take a look at the materials involved. Generally speaking,rods are made of either fiberglass or graphite. Graphite is generally lighter and stiffer than fiberglass. Many makers advertise that they have a very high modulus. A higher modulus translates to more stiffness, but with a price. The stiffer you make a graphite rod, the more brittle the rod becomes. Presumably, the manufacturer has added compounds to the resin to compensate for this factor, but graphite remains less durable than fiberglass. Fiberglass rods are usually preferred for big water, big fish or big lures as the rod will flex, or "load", more. This will allow longer casts and more sensitivity.
Power and action are terms that are often, incorrectly, used interchangeably. Power refers to how much a rod will flex with a given weight rig, and is indicated from light to heavy. Heavy fish, heavy rigs and/or long casts will require medium heavy or heavy power rods in most cases. Smaller fish or lighter rigs require less power.
A rod's action will tell you where the rod will flex. Action is expressed as fast or slow, or something in between the two. Fast action rods will bend only near the tip. As the action progresses through medium to slow, more of the rod will flex under the same load. With a slow action, this can be nearly the whole rod. "What does this do for me?" you may well ask. When more of the rod flexes under a given load the rod is said to be more "sensitive". This will allow you to more easily see and feel the small changes in the movement of the rig as it contacts bottom structure, vegetation, or hopefully, a fish's mouth!
Slow action rods are generally used for finesse techniques that require more than just winding in the bait, but some anglers prefer the feel of a slower action when casting. The trade off is that slow action rods won't cast as far, or as accurately, as a fast action rod, everything else being equal. I prefer a slightly slower action than most. It just seems to feel better with my casting style.
The guides are truly mystical for parts with such a simple job. Their job is to keep the line from contacting the rod during the cast and retrieve. They must do this without adding significant drag to the line. Usually consisting of a metal loop of differing designs and an insert ring that fits inside the loop. The latest innovation is made of a nickel-titanium alloy "memory metal" that will spring back to it's original shape, regardless of how far or often it's bent. The insert material may be metal, plastic, graphite, or ceramic. The harder materials like metal and ceramic will stay smooth without getting cut by tough braided lines or frayed monofilament and will also minimize line wear from use.
The reel seat is where "the rubber meets the road" as the saying goes. Some designs will allow direct contact with the rod blank. This can allow you to feel even the slightest contact. The material and design should hold the reel securely, with as little flex as possible. Make sure that you snug up the mechanism before fishing and check it every hour or so of heavy casting. Almost all systems will loosen over time, and losing a reel or a fish is a big price to pay for a preventable problem. Some pro's and experienced anglers will back the whole thing up with zip-ties or strong tape.
The grip style is purely a matter of preference. One-handed, or two-handed, cigar taper or something more exotic, use what fits your hand and casting style.
The rod butt, or back-end, can be capped with rubber or not. I find the cap comforting when I drop the rod or set it down on concrete, dirt or rock. One brand from Cabela's has an optional adjustable weight mount for balancing the rod with your reel. It seems contrary to logic that adding weight can make a rod feel lighter, but this is what it seems to do, by all accounts.
The overall length of the rod is mostly a matter of preference, but there are a number of specialty rods for flipping, jigging and even for specific species of fish. Generally, finesse techniques like flipping call for a shorter rod. Larger fish, big water and longer casts call for a longer rod.
Testing a rod in the store is very difficult. "Fanning" the rod may give you some idea of the relative action between two prospects, but little else. Look at the markings for recommended lure weight and line weight to make sure these fit your needs, preferences or casting style. Beyond that, you should now be able to make an educated purchase to meed your needs in any price range.
Have fun!
Dan Brooks
aka Caltain
Caltain
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